Moderators: Bill_Abner, ScoopBrady
Does anyone that really care about golf play on anything but TOUR Pro?Badgun wrote:Does anyone that cares an ounce about the game of golf really want to shoot in the 40s and hit it 450?
If it's like the 360 version, while playing True Aim mode, you have to use the right thumbstick to move the cross hairs on the ball in the "lie" window. To fade, you move the crosshair to the left, while a hook requires that you move the crosshair to the right of center. This is the same window in which you loft, or deloft the clubface by raising or lowering the horizontal crosshair.MUTTS wrote:Ok..so Im an idiot but can someone tell me how to draw/fade on the ps3 version. Hitting the R1/L1 doesnt seem to do anything. Is draw/fade not available this way in true aim mode?
Thanks guys.
Tony
It's not realistic at all. The amount of draw or fade should be dictated by your swing path....like in real life. Want to draw it? Swing In to Out and set up closed. Fade? Set up open and swing out to in. Predetermining fade or slice is as bad as adding spin with your controller while the ball is in the air.J_Cauthen wrote:
If it's like the 360 version, while playing True Aim mode, you have to use the right thumbstick to move the cross hairs on the ball in the "lie" window. To fade, you move the crosshair to the left, while a hook requires that you move the crosshair to the right of center. This is the same window in which you loft, or deloft the clubface by raising or lowering the horizontal crosshair.
You have to go by intuition and experience to gauge the degree of fade or loft you'll get. I think it's a more realistic way to handle this in a mode that's supposed provide more realism.
I agree but that's one of those things that doesn't quite translate well.JackB1 wrote:It's not realistic at all. The amount of draw or fade should be dictated by your swing path....like in real life. Want to draw it? Swing In to Out and set up closed. Fade? Set up open and swing out to in. Predetermining fade or slice is as bad as adding spin with your controller while the ball is in the air.J_Cauthen wrote:
If it's like the 360 version, while playing True Aim mode, you have to use the right thumbstick to move the cross hairs on the ball in the "lie" window. To fade, you move the crosshair to the left, while a hook requires that you move the crosshair to the right of center. This is the same window in which you loft, or deloft the clubface by raising or lowering the horizontal crosshair.
You have to go by intuition and experience to gauge the degree of fade or loft you'll get. I think it's a more realistic way to handle this in a mode that's supposed provide more realism.
Except on the Wii where you would draw or fade as Jack described.JRod wrote:I agree but that's one of those things that doesn't quite translate well.
I really enjoy it and with the courses unlocked and the unlocked expert driver my created golfer isn't total sh*t after an hour or two of XP. It's the best standard controller-based golf game I've ever played by a fairly large margin.
REALLY? The way draw and fade is presented in the game is the EXACT same way Tiger hits draws and fades.....he told the TW Dev Team this. They used to have it where the swing stick dictated draws and fades, but the analog sticks are not the best way to do this as you have to account for mishit penalties and the range of motion for the analog sticks is pretty narrow.JackB1 wrote:
It's not realistic at all. The amount of draw or fade should be dictated by your swing path....like in real life. Want to draw it? Swing In to Out and set up closed. Fade? Set up open and swing out to in. Predetermining fade or slice is as bad as adding spin with your controller while the ball is in the air.
For me, 360 by a longshot. Too many features missing in TWO that the 360 version has....dbdynsty25 wrote:I can't decide which version I like better...TWO or the 360 version. I'm glad that I actually like two versions this year, that's for sure. I'm pretty sure I'll stick with TWO tho because I like the true swing mechanic quite a bit better than the controller.
Posted this on the last page, but here it is again...JRod wrote:Tim,
What level of clubs are you using and what are the your player created attributes?
Using mostly Intermediate clubs except for the driver which is Advanced or Expert....DivotMaker wrote:
J,
I am using 50% sweet spot as a minimum on all clubs. I max out my Power, then ratchet it and workability down until I get my 50% sweet spot. In fact, I ratchet down workability all the way, then use what power is left to get to 50%. I do not mess with the other settings. I am currently maxed out on Power, 78% on Accuracy, 28% on Control, and 75% on putting. Had three very realistic and satisfying Live Tournament rounds online this AM in TOUR Pro.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Sounds like you got all 4 versions this yearDivotMaker wrote:For me, 360 by a longshot. Too many features missing in TWO that the 360 version has....dbdynsty25 wrote:I can't decide which version I like better...TWO or the 360 version. I'm glad that I actually like two versions this year, that's for sure. I'm pretty sure I'll stick with TWO tho because I like the true swing mechanic quite a bit better than the controller.
Umm, I suck but I have always been taught by instructors to set draw and fade by modifying address or stance. Always been told by several different coaches that this was much more reliable than monkeying with your swing.JackB1 wrote:
It's not realistic at all. The amount of draw or fade should be dictated by your swing path....like in real life. Want to draw it? Swing In to Out and set up closed. Fade? Set up open and swing out to in. Predetermining fade or slice is as bad as adding spin with your controller while the ball is in the air.
To a point, but you do make a different swing to draw and fade. It's not a completely different swing but on a draw you need to do certain things that you wouldn't do from a fade. But ya msuch of it comes down to address.RobVarak wrote:Umm, I suck but I have always been taught by instructors to set draw and fade by modifying address or stance. Always been told by several different coaches that this was much more reliable than monkeying with your swing.JackB1 wrote:
It's not realistic at all. The amount of draw or fade should be dictated by your swing path....like in real life. Want to draw it? Swing In to Out and set up closed. Fade? Set up open and swing out to in. Predetermining fade or slice is as bad as adding spin with your controller while the ball is in the air.
Ya I just meant to ask about clubs.DivotMaker wrote:Posted this on the last page, but here it is again...JRod wrote:Tim,
What level of clubs are you using and what are the your player created attributes?
Using mostly Intermediate clubs except for the driver which is Advanced or Expert....DivotMaker wrote:
J,
I am using 50% sweet spot as a minimum on all clubs. I max out my Power, then ratchet it and workability down until I get my 50% sweet spot. In fact, I ratchet down workability all the way, then use what power is left to get to 50%. I do not mess with the other settings. I am currently maxed out on Power, 78% on Accuracy, 28% on Control, and 75% on putting. Had three very realistic and satisfying Live Tournament rounds online this AM in TOUR Pro.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Not according to Tiger...it is all about ball positioning and stance as he says he makes the same swing as he does when he is trying to hit it straight.JRod wrote:
To a point, but you do make a different swing to draw and fade. It's not a completely different swing but on a draw you need to do certain things that you wouldn't do from a fade. But ya msuch of it comes down to address.
A little Tiger humor, Divot?DivotMaker wrote:Not according to Tiger...it is all about ball positioning and stance as he says he makes the same swing as he does when he is trying to hit it straight.JRod wrote:
To a point, but you do make a different swing to draw and fade. It's not a completely different swing but on a draw you need to do certain things that you wouldn't do from a fade. But ya msuch of it comes down to address.
Yeah, it's all about getting 18 holes in as well.Rodster wrote:A little Tiger humor, Divot?DivotMaker wrote:Not according to Tiger...it is all about ball positioning and stance as he says he makes the same swing as he does when he is trying to hit it straight.JRod wrote:
To a point, but you do make a different swing to draw and fade. It's not a completely different swing but on a draw you need to do certain things that you wouldn't do from a fade. But ya msuch of it comes down to address.
Correct, but by changing your stance and ball position, you are in effect, modifying your swing. He just doesn't want you to think about it and mess up your swing. If you close your stance and aim your body right of target and square the club to the target and swing along your body, you will draw the ball, but you are also now swinging "in to out". You have to due to your setup.RobVarak wrote:Umm, I suck but I have always been taught by instructors to set draw and fade by modifying address or stance. Always been told by several different coaches that this was much more reliable than monkeying with your swing.JackB1 wrote:
It's not realistic at all. The amount of draw or fade should be dictated by your swing path....like in real life. Want to draw it? Swing In to Out and set up closed. Fade? Set up open and swing out to in. Predetermining fade or slice is as bad as adding spin with your controller while the ball is in the air.
The whole point is....putting the "X" on the ball where you want to strike it, beforehand, isn't realistic at all. It should just be the physics of the clubhead and swingpath that dictates where the ball will do. Just like in baseball, if you swing late at an inside fastball, you will most likely slice it down the right side.10spro wrote:Both stance and proper swing mechanics are important. Stance is important whether you want to draw a ball or fade it but also Tiger may not have told anyone that he's got an uncanny ability to coil his body according to the shot he plays, a flexibility that obviously not many of us have including the Pros. When Tiger plays a fade his follow through does not cross over his shoulders but controls it high instead.
On a draw his swing is more violent and finishes with a nice finish across his shoulders. Now, the fact that he told the developers how he approaches the ball to do a draw or fade with the same swing, yes he starts his swings with pretty much the same angle/plane in his swing, but how he finishes his shots making determines the final ball path.
So can players in the same house all play on separate difficulties?Leebo33 wrote:Except on the Wii where you would draw or fade as Jack described.JRod wrote:I agree but that's one of those things that doesn't quite translate well.
I picked up the PS3 version too since I'm a sucker with apparently too much disposable income. Actually, I'm finding that while training for a marathon this summer the last thing I want to do after a long run is stand playing a video game
